What is it that keeps you from traveling to certain places? Sometimes, I would imagine myself going, but initially, I would not think to act on my desire to see such a place.
“We are limited only by our imagination and our will to act.” ~ Ron Garan.
What did I think I was doing when I decided to book a tour/trip to camp overnight on the Greenland Icecap? Clearly, I had forgotten that I was a woman who grew up in the suburbs of Cincinnati, Ohio, and barely did any outdoorsy-type activities. Outdoors always meant “allergy attack” to me. Perhaps it was a momentary lapse in sanity when I booked it. But I had paid for it, so I was determined to get through it.
First things first…
I had flown to Ilulissat for a very different type of trip via Kangerlussuaq. So, on my return trip, I decided to spend a few nights in a place I honestly hadn’t considered before. I stayed at Old Camp, a hostel not too far from the airport yet too far to walk with my bags. I spent the night in the hostel, and the next morning I was on my way to an adventure I wasn’t prepared for. Truth be told, many of my adventures in the past began the same way.
Before I set out with a group of strangers who were clearly more experienced than me, we prepared by helping our guide load “things” onto the bus we’d be taking with us. We were basically hitching a ride with another tour to the icecap. It was a slow ride on a not always smooth road, but it was also one of the longest stretches of paved road in Greenland at 25 km. We made a few stops along the way, which was nice because I saw a side of Greenland that I never would have guessed existed. I saw and walked in the sand. Sand isn’t what I think of when I think of Greenland even today after seeing it with my own eyes. We also saw Russell Glacier in all its glory as we meandered through the winding road leading to the ice sheet.
And so it began
Uh oh, it was time to find out what I had signed up for. Crampons, sleeping bags, and all our stuff. Crampons, oh the crampons, were my nemesis the entire time. For the life of me, I don’t know what they had against me. But every single time I looked down one was ready to fall off. First the right, then the left. Loads of fun.
The “short” hike
It was supposed to be a quick 10 to 15-minute hike to our camping spot. I’m sure it was 30 to 45, but that could also be my laziness talking. It felt long. And I felt weighted down in all those layers while also wearing crampons on my hiking boots. But you know what?! I was on the icecap! Me! While I wasn’t the first and certainly won’t be the last, it was pretty surreal thinking about where I was. So, I kept going, trying to keep up. We saw people who were doing day hikes along the way, but soon they disappeared into the distance behind walls of white.
The camping spot
We arrived at where we’d be camping for the night. Oh my God! I asked myself, “Where am I?” There were no signs of life except for the water that ran nearby. I was surrounded by ice and a few humans. The only signal available was for the satellite phone which was only for emergencies. And I was praying there wouldn’t be an emergency. But back to the story. Not only was I surrounded by ice, but I was also looking at the place I’d be sleeping. The only tent that was set up was the one for our guide which meant we had to pitch our own tents. Picture Elle from Legally Blonde trying to pitch a tent while trying not to fall on the ice. And while that may sound a little dramatic, it’s not too far off. Thankfully, I did have help from our guide otherwise I would have been sleeping in the open air. That would not have been pretty.
A short hike around the ice sheet
We were now settled in and had had hot cocoa, we were sitting on ice after all, and then it was time for a short hike. Hiking meant those evil crampons again. I was determined to try as if I had any other choice. I did not. I was excited about the hike. But it was work. The trip is supposedly moderately difficult. Note to self, “Moderate means difficult if you’re not in good enough shape.” At least better than what I was at the time. There was climbing. There was jumping. Again, picture Elle. We jumped over a little stream. And that was funny because I hadn’t jumped like that since my school gym days. I came up short and said thank God for waterproof, well, everything. There was also falling when one of my crampons loosened enough to make me lose my footing. My guide said that hiking boots with a harder shell tend to hold the crampons better than a softer rubber like mine. But hey, where was I going to find another pair of hiking boots on the icecap?
The views
What can I say? It was stunning to see all that we saw. The peaks of ice, the moulins, the glacial streams. I was always happy to stop and take in the views. It meant a little break for me. Also, during the stops, rather breathers, I felt at peace. It’s such a serene setting. You forget about the outside world, if but for a moment. And during it all, our guide shared stories and explained how moulins form as well as how dangerous it is to get too close to one. No one would have to worry about me doing that because I proudly say that I am a chicken. Hearing the water rush down into one was really something. I cannot imagine what it would be like to explore such areas alone.
Back to camp
After a grueling (being dramatic) hike back to camp, we had dinner. Everyone retired to their tents for the night that of course didn’t look like night. I tried to get comfortable in my sleeping bag. I wasn’t, but for reasons unrelated to the experience itself. Only another woman could possibly understand. I wouldn’t fall asleep until after 3 am. And that’s a whole other story…
Takeaways
After this experience, I learned to say yes to adventure more often. A sense of adventure and a positive attitude go a long way! So, say YES and book your adventure with us.
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